Pousada Capim Santo Trancoso
Capim Santo lies at the core of Trancoso, a village that has — to the past ten years or so — described laid-back-but-luxe Brazilian beach posh. The gorgeous and rich jet in between Christmas and Carnival to laze about the magnificent beaches. By night they dine al fresco and dancing on the Quadrado, a kilometre-long grassy square perched on a pond and lined by fairly stained bungalows turned designer stores, restaurants and pubs. The resort sits inside collapsing space of the nightlife, on among those Quadrado’s southern corners, a 15-minute walk in the shore.
Style & personality
Years of preparation lie behind the resort’s carefully-crafted casual elegant. From the primary building, restaurant and cottages, uncooked and distressed woodwork, white-painted brick or mortar Greek island-whitewash is offset by splashes of color from scattered local art, linens, ceramics and cushions, and also the deep-green of the surrounding trees. Even the lambent glow of candles, breeze-blown lamps and gold path-lights illuminate public places during the night but not so brightly that they detract from the moon or starlight.
Service & amenities
Service is warm, considerate and efficient and the employees seem really pleased to work here, possibly because the owners invest heavily in training and plough back profits to a college for disadvantaged regional children. Waste garbage and water is recycled, showers powered by solar panels and lots of the restaurant spices and herbs are grown in the kitchen garden.
If funds allow, prevent the boxy, minimalist all-white rooms at the primary building and reserve a garden bungalow half as large as a tennis court. These are supplied with soft couches, solid Adirondack chairs and distressed-timber desks and lent color by warm-woods, blue counterpanes and jars of red heliconia flowers. En-suite baths are extended white rectangles floored with honey-coloured polished concrete and with manicured whirlpool showers. The plushest bunglaows have decks; a few with outdoor bathrooms hewn from one, large cross-cut tree trunk. Others have chairs, tables, hammocks and sweeping sea and forest views.
Food & beverage
Cordon Bleu-trained Morena Leite’s kitchen is among the greatest in North East Brazil along with also a destination in its own right. The menu focuses on fish and combines freshwater ingredients using French technique. Exotic dishes include tapioca millefeuilles with aratu fish and crab ceviche with biri-biri lime. With restaurants in Rio and São Paulo, Monica herself is usually here just in high season.
Value for cash
Double rooms from 335 Brazilian Reals (#90) in low season; also out of 540 Brazilian Reals (#140) at large. Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi. Garden bungalows are only over twice as pricey.
Accessibility for guests with disabilities?
Access to rooms on lower floors and also to backyard bunglaows. Most regions in the resort are step-free.
No specific facilities for the families.
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